day one air nz fashion week...

My day started with the anticipated Cybele show, which always promised to be both stunning in set design, music and of course the collection...

Cybele: The first thing I noticed about this show was the amazing makeup - bright slashes of blusher and a nude eye, no mascara either - which seems to be a big look at the moment. Cybele continued her love affair with flowers - this time the lily took centre stage in this collection, entitled, "Virtue". The shape of the lily was used everywhere, from beautifully, sculptured hemlines to an amazing print on silk that looked like it was almost 'dripping', to necklines and fluted sleeves. Abit abit paneled body con snuck it's way in there, paired with a dramatic cape, ruffles and frills. The moth wing print used was stunning & subtle used on sheer fabrics and soft knits. The one-of-a-kind glass lilies by artist Layla Walter were a standout, crated especially for the show caught my eye. My favourite pieces were the one shouldered shot silk blue dress and the cape-like dress with the lily-like hemline. The full-length billowing, silk print dress was also a standout. I also really liked the hair, intricate plaiting up the back and sort of, a dirty look, a nod to the Victorian era maybe that influenced the show?

 

Twenty Seven Names & Juliette Hogan shared a show which started with The Horrors' track ' as a bank of models marched out starting with the "Butter Not Bombs" collection by Twenty Seven Names. As always T7N use music as a major influence in their design and shows and the rock and roll vibe has become in trenched in their image - and that's a good thing! The collection was filled with names referencing Beatles lyrics and songs and also places in Japan - maybe a nod to the time John Lennon spend in Japan? As always masculine tailoring was a strong look, with trench coats, waist coats and perfectly cut boy-style pants, shirts were soft and white with pointed collars, some with sleeves and some without. I loved the longer cotton shirt dresses and the slightly gothy/70's look with the round John Lennon glasses that were paired with these looks. A cream knit body suit called "Yesterday" also caught my eye - so cute! If boyish doesn't take your fancy their was plenty of feminine looks in there for you too, body con shapes, puff sleeves, chunky knit cardigans, paired with gorgeous cream tights and floppy 70's hats that Yoko would have rocked, a stunning layered skirt with matching blouse (my favourite look), velvet blazers, linen also got a look in, in the shape of shorts and a cute blazer. The last part of the show changed to a darker feel, with velvet devoire dresses in an amazing bird and tree print, big slouchy hooded knits, T7N signature military was still and there and another favourite piece - the vespa parker with peace sign on the back and plaid inside the hood. Juliette Hogan's collection, "So Pretty It Hurts" was so pretty it hurt! I loved these two shows - my definite favs so far. As always Juliette showed pretty, ladylike pieces that I am lusting after already! The standout, a soft grey cape with oversized bow, pretty pinafores, floral tea dress cut short to modernize them, blazers featured, as with alot of collections, they will once again be big next winter. Pussycat bows, soft cottons, tweed, silk dresses in blue and in a check and my fav piece, a cream layered dress - gorgeous! The peach short dress with massive bow was also a standout piece, as was the black maxi dress with sculptured shoulder panels. Loved the navy tights, woolen scarves tied in bows and yellow leather gloves. The girls wore up do's with combs in the back, winged eyeliner and innocent girly makeup. Juliette asked M.A.C to create "bookish beauty with a prim edge".

 

Alexandra Owen - My first Alexandra Owen show ever started with a very odd noise backstage that sounded like gaffa tape being ripped again and again, everyone looked very confused, until the models strode out with their legs bound up like show horses. This collection evoked thoughts of a rich, Sloane-Ranger girl in England that is obviously a 'horsey' girl. Strict tailoring, austere, masculine suiting, beautiful, white cotton shirting, coats with stunning, sculptural features, tweed, fur, cropped pants all in browns and blacks, just right for the manor. These are classic pieces, not for those interested in trends, investment pieces. I loved the 'private schoolgirl' makeup, pale, dewy faces with full brows, glossy lips and the softly waved hair. The show finished with one of my favouite songs, 'Closedown' by The Cure.

 

 

The Diet Coca Cola Little Black Dress Show - This show was a highlight for me, loved the limited edition Kate Sylvester Coke bottles we got, in her woodcut print from the "Take a Hike" collection. I'll just mention my favourites...Kate's little, super-short ruffled mini - I am seriously lusting after this! Australian designer Alice McCall's spacey print on the floor-length tight gown, Yvonne Bennetti's little flapper number with ruffles, rosettes, diamantes and a sweet little ruffled cap. Juliette Hogan's knife-pleat floor-length gown, Australian Marnie Skillings crazy headpiece with the chains falling over eyes and the slash to waist dress with chiffon sleeves. Adrian Hailwood's sculptured micro minis were wonderfully boxy and oh-so-short. Australian's Romance Was Born gothic velvet number. Jimmy D's stunning, billowing maxi dress with beautifully tailored back and last but certainly not least Kirrily Johnstone's backless, pin tucked cotton number and her take on the 80's power dress!

 

Zambesi - Wow, what a show, held at the Sky City theatre, they created the perfect pre-show atmosphere with amazing, Tim Burton-eqse blue projections on the walls showing creepy-looking sparse trees. The show was called "The Enigma" and really that's what it was - this is my take on what I thought it was all about. Zambesi pulled out all the stops and showed the best of what they could do - and alot of it! Everything from an amazing suede coat, wool trenches, suiting with cropped pants, jeans, draping dresses, long-line cardigans and sweaters, duffel coats, fur capes, floral dresses, leather, vinyl pants and coats, a camel dress with a fitted cape stood out for me as did a grey criss cross jacket, a tie-front red silk shirt glowed in a sea of darkness and long leather flat boots tied everything together. A Russian revolutionary theme was certainly strong with the 'rich' man and the 'worker' man shown, a beatnik theme also emerged toward the end. The set is worth a mention to, it was stripped back to show the backstage area with old movie posters and props, a great touch as was the black and white filmed backdrop of an eerie scene of a bare tree and greying sky.